Phyllo, cheese, heaven: Balkan women have been making these treats for centuries | Food and cooking |

For many Balkan women, making the dish is like a reflex. Its technique gets passed down from generation to generation. For my baba, gibanica is a cheese and phyllo-dough creation she lovingly feeds (overfeeds?) her family. For Loryn Nalic of Balkan Treat Box, the same dish is called sirnica, one of the first Balkan recipes she learned. For me, it’s the cheese-filled wonder I’d always hoped to learn how to make, partly as a way of carrying on my family’s heritage, partly because it’s...

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